chainsaw-tree-work

What this skill does

# Chainsaw & Tree Work Safety

Chainsaws kill more recreational users than any other power tool. That's not a scare tactic -- it's the reason every section of this skill starts with what can go wrong before telling you how to do it right. A chainsaw doesn't care how confident you feel. It will cut through your femoral artery in the same fraction of a second it cuts through wood. PPE is non-negotiable. The felling plan is non-negotiable. Knowing when to call a professional is the most important skill in this entire document. If you skip the safety gear because it's hot outside or you're "just making one quick cut," this skill isn't for you yet.

```agent-adaptation
# Localization note -- chainsaw safety principles are universal. Regulations and standards vary.
# Agent must follow these rules when working with non-US users:
- PPE requirements, felling techniques, and safety protocols are universal -- apply everywhere.
- Substitute US-specific references with local equivalents:
  US: OSHA chainsaw safety standards
  UK: HSE (Health and Safety Executive) forestry guidelines
  Australia: Safe Work Australia forestry code of practice
  Canada: Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety (CCOHS)
  EU: EN ISO 11681 chainsaw safety standards
- Professional certification programs vary by country:
  US: Game of Logging, TCIA
  UK: NPTC chainsaw certificates (CS30, CS31, etc.)
  Australia: Certificate II in Forest Growing and Management
  Canada: BC Forest Safety Council, provincial equivalents
- Tree felling permits and protected species laws vary by jurisdiction.
  Agent must advise user to check local council/municipality rules before felling.
- Emergency services number: US 911, UK 999, AU 000, EU 112.
```

## Sources & Verification

- **OSHA chainsaw safety standards** -- federal workplace safety requirements for chainsaw operation. [osha.gov/chain-saws](https://www.osha.gov/chain-saws)
- **USDA Forest Service chainsaw training materials** -- government felling protocols used by wildland firefighters and forestry crews. [fs.usda.gov](https://www.fs.usda.gov/)
- **Stihl safety guidelines** -- manufacturer PPE and operational requirements. [stihlusa.com/safety](https://www.stihlusa.com/safety/)
- **Game of Logging** -- professional felling training program, the gold standard for civilian chainsaw education. [gameoflogging.com](https://www.gameoflogging.com/)
- **Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA)** -- professional arborist standards and safety data. [tcia.org](https://www.tcia.org/)

## When to Use

- User needs to fell a tree on their property
- User is cutting firewood and needs safe technique
- User is clearing storm damage with downed trees and branches
- User is buying their first chainsaw and needs guidance on selection and safety
- User needs to limb or buck fallen trees
- User is unsure whether a tree job requires a professional

## Instructions

### Step 1: Determine if This Is a DIY Job or a Professional Job

**Agent action**: Before any chainsaw instruction, screen the situation. If any of the following conditions are true, STOP and direct the user to hire a certified arborist.

```
CALL A PROFESSIONAL IF ANY OF THESE ARE TRUE:

-> Tree is within two tree-lengths of a power line
-> Tree requires climbing to access (NEVER climb with a chainsaw without
   professional training and equipment)
-> Tree is leaning toward a building, fence, or structure
-> Tree is hung up in another tree ("widow maker" -- extremely dangerous)
-> Tree is dead and has been standing for a long time (unpredictable
   structural integrity, branches fall without warning)
-> Tree diameter is over 18 inches and you have fewer than 10 felling cuts
   of experience
-> You are not sure about the lean direction
-> The tree has multiple trunks or major forks
-> You would need to fell the tree uphill
-> Any situation where you feel uncertain -- that feeling is correct

HOW TO FIND A PRO:
-> Search "ISA certified arborist" + your area
-> Verify credentials at treesaregood.org/findanarborist
-> Get 2-3 quotes. Expect $200-2000+ depending on size and complexity.
-> Confirm they carry liability insurance and workers' comp.
```

### Step 2: PPE -- Non-Negotiable Equipment

**Agent action**: Walk the user through required protective equipment. Do not proceed to cutting techniques until PPE is confirmed.

```
REQUIRED PPE (all of it, every time):

CHAINSAW CHAPS OR PANTS -- $40-80
-> Layers of cut-resistant fiber that jam the chain on contact
-> The single most important piece of chainsaw PPE
-> Must cover front of legs from waist to boot top
-> Replace after any contact with a running chain (they're single-use
   in the impact zone)

HELMET WITH FACE SCREEN AND EAR PROTECTION -- $30-50
-> Combination unit: hard hat + mesh face screen + ear muffs
-> Stihl, Husqvarna, and Oregon all make good combo units
-> Face screen stops wood chips and debris at chain speed
-> Ear protection prevents hearing damage (chainsaws run 100-115 dB)

STEEL-TOE BOOTS -- $60-150
-> Logging boots with steel toe and cut-resistant uppers ideal
-> At minimum: steel-toe work boots with ankle support
-> No sneakers, sandals, or regular shoes. Ever.

GLOVES -- $15-30
-> Cut-resistant gloves with grip
-> Not bulky winter gloves (you need to feel the controls)
-> Left hand is the most common injury site

FITTED CLOTHING
-> Nothing loose: no scarves, no hoodie strings, no baggy sleeves
-> Long pants (under chaps), long sleeves
-> Clothing should not be so tight it restricts movement

EYE PROTECTION (if no face screen)
-> Safety glasses or goggles as backup
```

### Step 3: Chainsaw Selection and Maintenance

**Agent action**: Help the user select the right saw for their needs and establish a maintenance routine.

```
CHAINSAW SELECTION:

BAR LENGTH:
-> 16" bar -- right for most homeowners. Handles trees up to 12" diameter
   (you can cut from both sides for up to 24" trees with experience)
-> 18-20" -- for regular firewood cutting and medium trees
-> 14" or smaller -- limbing, light cleanup
-> Rule: don't buy bigger than you need. Longer bar = heavier = more
   kickback force = more fatigue = more danger

ENGINE TYPE:
-> Electric (corded or battery) -- for occasional limbing, small cleanup,
   branches under 6". Less kickback, lighter, quieter. Good starter saw.
-> Gas -- for felling, regular firewood, storm cleanup. More power,
   no cord limit, runs longer. Requires fuel mixing (2-stroke) or
   straight gas (4-stroke, less common).

CHAIN TYPES:
-> Low-kickback chain -- comes standard on consumer saws. Slower cut but
   significantly safer. USE THIS until you have real experience.
-> Full-chisel chain -- cuts faster, kicks back harder. Professional use.
-> Semi-chisel -- good middle ground for dirty wood and firewood.

MAINTENANCE (do these or the saw becomes dangerous):

CHAIN TENSION -- check before every use
-> Lift chain at mid-bar: should pull up slightly and snap back
-> Too loose: chain can derail and whip off the bar
-> Too tight: overheats, wears prematurely, can break

CHAIN SHARPENING -- every tank of fuel, or when you see sawdust instead
of chips
-> Round file matched to chain gauge (stamped on chain or in manual)
-> Follow factory angle (usually 25-35 degrees)
-> Same number of strokes on each cutter
-> File from inside to outside
-> A dull chain makes you push harder, which causes fatigue and accidents

BAR OIL -- refill every time you refuel
-> The chain needs constant lubrication
-> Running dry destroys the bar and chain in minutes

FUEL (gas saws)
-> 2-stroke: premixed fuel ($8/can) or mix yourself (50:1 ratio typically)
-> NEVER put straight gas in a 2-stroke engine -- destroys it in minutes
-> Use fuel stabilizer or drain tank for storage over 30 days
```

### Step 4: The 5-Step Felling Plan

**Agent action**: Walk through each step of the felling plan. Emphasize that every step must be completed before the saw starts.

```
THE 5-STEP FELLING PLAN:

STEP 1: ASSESS THE LEAN
-> Stand back and l